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Colour and codification: Eleanor Medhurst on queer fashion

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Eleanor Medhurst is a historian of queer visual and material culture, with her website Dressing Dykes creating a space for lesbian fashion, be it past or present. As the June sunshine heralds the start of Pride month, I interviewed Eleanor on the shifting borders of queer fashion – whether it’s intentionally stylish or not.

Obviously, the rainbow flag is the fabulous symbol of pride, but how does colour relate to queer fashion more generally?

Colour is everywhere in queer visual culture, including fashion – these are themes that I explore in my next book (more on that soon!), but which also appear in Unsuitable: A History of Lesbian Fashion. There’s a lot of symbolism within queer fashion: ways to speak with our appearance when it hasn’t always been safe or possible to share our identities out loud. Colour is one of these, often in the form of coloured flowers (like the green carnation or lavender) or shapes (like the pink triangle). These are usually references to queer history, and their incorporation in fashion is a sort of ‘if you know you know’ situation.

How do you think Pride as a celebration has influenced queer fashion?

I think that Pride as a protest has influenced queer fashion in how it’s often a loud, unavoidable event where queer people put themselves on display in order to make queer lives (and queer issues) visible to the general public. A key link between Pride and fashion is the use of bold, slogan t-shirts, which are often handmade and boast activist messages. As Pride has, in some contexts, become more of a festival, references to the rainbow flag are unavoidable; this works as a kind of visual shorthand to assert a queer presence in the world that is recognised by almost everyone.

How do you think queer fashion still grapples with constructs of gender?

Clothing in general is still so regulated by gender. It’s often still taboo for men to wear skirts, for instance, and colours like pink hold especially gendered connotations in our clothes. Queer fashion often unpicks these meanings – usually in a playful, creative way. Queer people are really at the frontline of gender deconstruction within fashion and self-presentation.

How have assertions of the sensible shaped perceptions of lesbian and trans fashion specifically?

Lesbian fashion is stereotypically unfashionable – full of sensible shoes and dungarees, very much shaped by feminist ‘uniforms’ of the 1970s and ‘80s. These are revolutionary in themselves: they carved out space for women to dress in clothes that weren’t always feminine. They made room for comfort and practicality in women’s fashion, letting the borders between gendered styles become less defined. But it’s important to note that this is also not all that lesbian fashion can be – sometimes lesbians dress in clothes that are campy and glamorous, and not at all practical!

In your essay Lesbian Activism and Crafted Fashion you delve into the histories of lesbian knitting practices. What do you think the link is between queer fashion and craft more generally, especially in a world where handmaking is experiencing a resurgence?

This is a pretty big topic to cover, and I’m not sure that I can do so in a single answer: I’m currently working on an entire PhD about lesbian craft! Generally, though, queer people are often drawn to craft because it provides a way for us to shape our own place in the world; in a world that isn’t made for us, this is a powerful thing.

Writing from Oxford (and the backdrop of its academic history) do you think location plays a significant role in different attitudes to queer dress?

I think that location definitely plays a role in attitudes to queer dress, as some places have much more accepting environments than others. This is often based on how queer the population of a particular place is, and how normal it is to see people dressing in non-normative ways!

With the controversy surrounding the Met Gala – and the encroaching power of oppressive voices within fashion – how do you think queer fashion sits within the industry today?

Queer fashions have often been outside of the fashion industry altogether. Sometimes this comes from not being accepted within the mainstream, and others from a place of radical politics. While queer people have always worked within fashion, the fashion industry has also exploited queer style, borrowing elements of queer culture and diluting their meanings for mass appeal. It’s a complicated landscape, and one that is difficult to disengage with: we all get dressed every day, after all. 

You recently wrote a book on Billie Eilish’s style. She has an incredibly distinct image while maintaining the priorities of sustainability. How do you think this can be worked into wardrobes more broadly, as a queer symbol or otherwise?

Sustainable fashion is an important topic for a lot of queer people. It goes hand-in-hand with a DIY ethos, as well as the link between craft and queerness that I touched on above. Sustainability can mean many things, but to many queer people it’s about reinvention: giving things a new life, remaking them, making them our own. 

And last but by no means least, who is your queer fashion icon?

There are so many! Historically, some of my fashion icons include Natalie Clifford Barney, Gladys Bentley, and Madge Garland. In the present day, I’m going to go for the obvious (but correct) choice, which is Chappell Roan.



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Protest held outside Linacre College over allegations of racism and mistreatment of ex-employee

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A protest took place outside Linacre College on Monday evening in support of a former kitchen worker who has brought an employment tribunal claim against the college over allegations of racism, bullying, and unsafe working conditions.

Around 60 people gathered outside the college from 5.30pm, holding signs reading “Justice for Joe” and “I stand with Joe”. Protestors also chanted “shame” towards the college. 

The protest followed allegations concerning a former employee, known as “Joe” for the tribunal, who worked at the college for 26 years. Joe has alleged that a manager referred to him using racist language, mocked his Caribbean accent, and attempted to force him out of his job. He also claims that he was required to wear unsuitable footwear, and alleges that this contributed to him developing gangrene, which ultimately resulted in the amputation of his leg. Joe also claims that a senior member of staff visited him whilst in hospital, pulled the sheet back from his leg and said, “I want to see if it is true that your leg has been amputated”. An employment tribunal is due to consider the case later this month.

Linacre College has strongly denied the allegations. In an email sent to college members ahead of the protest, and shared with Cherwell, Principal Dr Nick Leimu-Brown described the allegations as “extremely serious” but said that the College “rejects those allegations and disputes the claims that have been made”. Leimu-Brown also wrote: “The demonstration has been organised under the slogan ‘Justice for Joe’. Whatever views individuals may hold about the case, I hope we can all agree that genuine justice depends upon a fair and independent hearing of the evidence. I would encourage everyone involved to respect the legal process that is already underway. Justice is never served by heated argument on social media.” He added that the matter was subject to ongoing legal proceedings and that “the truth of the claims are for an Employment Tribunal to determine”. 

Linacre has also previously emphasised the College’s commitment to diversity and maintaining an inclusive working environment for all staff, which doesn’t tolerate racism or discrimination.

Several speakers addressed the crowd during the protest. One of the speakers was Professor Gus John, a race equality campaigner who studied at Oxford. Addressing the crowd, John described Joe’s alleged treatment as “a form of lynching” and argued that “racism kills and it kills instantly and it kills slowly”. He told protesters that Joe’s experience represented “a slow and deliberate lynching”. 

John also told Cherwell that it was “absolutely appalling that a university college could be treating an employee in this way” and argued that it was “absolutely essential that we understand how long we’ve been on this road in our struggle against racism”. He also called for campaigners to remain “committed for the long haul”.

The organiser, Dan, told Cherwell that the protest served two purposes: to show that “the community is behind you”, and to send a message that “the community is watching” the college. He added that Linacre should “acknowledge, apologise, and atone for the harm they have done to Joe” and provide compensation if the allegations are upheld.

Geoff Taylor, a retired teacher at St Clare’s in Summertown and UCU member, said he had attended because of the “abominable treatment of Joe”, and repeated the trade union principle that “an injury to one is an injury to all”. Carole Scott from Oxford Stand Up to Racism told Cherwell that campaigners “have to stand in solidarity with those who have suffered racist abuse”.

Multiple speakers also criticised the lack of action from Joe’s union, UNISON, in providing legal support in the tribunal. In his speech, Professor John described a lack of support for Black workers from parts of the trade union movement, labelling UNISON as “a disgrace” and arguing that it was “ignoring the humanity of it all”. Cherwell has been unable to verify these claims of incorrect handling of the case within UNISON and discriminatory treatment by the union. UNISON refused to comment to Cherwell, “as this is still an active case with ongoing proceedings”.  

Several attendees also said they planned to raise Joe’s case within their local branches. Peter Cann, a retired member of the National Union of Journalists and UNISON, told Cherwell that he would be calling on both his NUJ branch and local UNISON branches to condemn what he described as an “appalling act”, and said he would ask his UNISON branch to examine the role of union officials in Joe’s case.

The demonstration was also attended by multiple local councillors. Oxford City Councillor for Holywell (the ward that Linacre sits in), Dr Dianne Regisford, told Cherwell she was there to show “support and solidarity” and was calling for “a full investigation into the allegations”. Oxfordshire County Councillor for Linacre Emma Garnett also described the allegations as “absolutely horrific”.

Very few students were in attendance at the protest, but one told Cherwell that she was “standing in solidarity with Joe” and wanted to ensure that more students were aware of the issue and “how relevant it is to us as participants in the institution”. Otilia, a Linacre student attending the protest, told Cherwell that she hoped students within the college would consider what action they could take, adding that this case conflicted with Linacre’s public commitment to diversity. 



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Goodbye football: Welcoming political tension to the centre stage of the World Cup

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It’s been four years since England men lost to France at the quarter finals in Qatar. Since then, the women have won the Euros twice – in 2021 and 2025 – bringing football home for our success-starved nation: it would be amazing if England could repeat this success in this tournament too. 

However, when approaching the 2026 World Cup in North America, my thoughts don’t drift towards football. I’ve barely considered the players in our squad or our chances at success. In fact, the game itself has taken a backseat. Instead, the politics, headlines, and contentious issues that we’ve already seen in the build-up have dominated the discussion. With all these different factors at play, concern trumps any excited anticipation in the build-up to the tournament.

There are plenty of places to start when considering the disarray of this World Cup, but I think a relatively simple place to start would be with the fans. Supporters are the very essence of football. Whilst there can certainly be issues, the majority of fans merely want their team to win. For this reason, the ticket prices for this tournament are completely unfair to these loyal fan bases. Back in December, FIFA (Fédération Internationale de Football Association) announced that the cheapest tickets for the final would still cost over £3000. Naturally, this is completely unrealistic for many football fans, now left with no chance  to watch their team play. This doesn’t even consider their devotion in terms of flight, accommodation, and transportation costs. In fact, even the president himself said that he wouldn’t pay to watch the US play Paraguay in the group stage.

The frustration in terms of profit still runs even further. One of the new features in this year’s tournament is ‘Hydration Breaks’. In other tournaments, so that high temperatures don’t have a negative effect on players, time is allocated for athletes to rehydrate. However, these breaks have been introduced as a compulsory requirement for every match in this tournament, regardless of whether they are playing indoors or outdoors, in a conditioned or unconditioned stadium. This means that matches will only be played for 22 minutes before a break, which some have noticed aligns these games more closely with American football. 

On the face of it, these breaks may seem beneficial to the players. However, the Guardian has found that this offers FIFA more than 200 guaranteed slots for advertising. Naturally, more advertising allows for only more revenue. This brings into question, then, whether FIFA is truly concerned about the safety of the players, or simply just its own profit boost. Whilst the decision could, of course, be informed by both, it does suggest that FIFA’s goal in this tournament is to severely boost the revenue they receive, despite the rules of the sport and the loyalty of the fans. This is further endorsed when considering the high ticket prices.

Additionally, many stadiums have had to change their names temporarily for the tournament. Some originally had brands as their stadium names, such as the Mercedes-Benz Stadium. However, in order not to hand out free advertising to companies which aren’t sponsoring the tournament, the names have been changed to generic city names. Mercedes-Benz Stadium, for example, is to be known as the Atlanta Stadium for the duration of the World Cup this year. Though this may not have a direct impact on the game itself, it once again highlights that capital is premium in this tournament is decentralising and almost displacing the very essence of the game for wealth-snatching tactics.

Furthermore, the World Cup, for the first time, is taking place across an entire continent. Whilst that may be an exciting part of football history,  the sheer size of the continent also provides something of a logistical nightmare. The tournament will take place across four time zones, with some stadiums up to almost 3000 miles apart. Frustrating for fans, who want to see their teams once they’ve passed the group stage, the sheer cost of travel is something that won’t be easily managed – especially alongside the already extortionate ticket prices. Secondly, it’s a long way to go for the players, who will have to travel wide expanses to play their next match. Even if this may affect all players, it does add a degree of difficulty, considering that 104 games will be taking place across 39 days. The excitement of such international hosting is somewhat lessened when visualising the tricky logistics for both fans and teams.

Moreover, there remains an ongoing concern over ICE (Immigration and Customs Enforcement) raids in the USA. Even back in January, the FSE (Football Supporters Europe) fan group expressed concern over such events. There have also been concerns, in light of these raids, over fans’ personal safety when travelling to the US. Supporters have no reason for their fears to be alleviated, as Todd Lyons (director of ICE) expressed that the enforcement group’s presence was a necessary part of the World Cup. With regular stories on the news and social media, it’s no wonder that fans – forced to constantly consider their own safety – are sceptical about the role that ICE will play in the tournament.

Concerns have also been raised over new security checks for fans entering the country. Back in December, President Donald Trump announced security checks that would involve checking tourists’ social media accounts. This affects 42 countries, one of which is the UK, in the interest of the safety of Americans. However, according to the Guardian, the FSE described the new measure as “profoundly unacceptable”. This is just another step in an already difficult journey to the US, possibly compelling fans to hand over access to their social media histories dating back up to five years. This could be seen not only as an invasion of privacy, but also as a policing of private lives – another deterrent to devoted fans.

According to BBC Sport, the American Hotel & Lodging Association (AHLA) has had up to 70% of FIFA-reserved rooms cancelled in major cities like Los Angeles, Boston, Dallas, and more. When considering all these factors, it can’t be a shock that reservations are being cancelled. This tournament no longer focuses on the game itself, removing the very passion of the sport and replacing it with a fear of the political and economic climate. Football is not the focus of this World Cup.

Yet, I hold some hope. Whilst writing this article, the England squads have been announced. This may not be relevant to everyone, but as a Three Lions fan, I was surprised to see some of the changes that have been made to the team. Greats from previous tournaments such as Foden, Maguire, and Alexander-Arnold are all missing out on the chance to bring football home in this World Cup. And whilst that may be a questionable move, it finally brings the discussion back towards football. On top of that, Shakira has released a promising official World Cup song once again, saving the day with ‘Dai Dai’. With her reappearance comes the return of the nostalgia of previous tournaments.

The fate of the World Cup is undecided. The atmosphere around the tournament is certainly focused on everything other than football, with political, economic, and social matters drawing away the attention of fans. However, we’re being gradually tugged towards the game itself, hopefully shifting the atmosphere towards a more positive, football-focused one. Whilst we don’t know what’s to come, I do know that fans will be brought together in the spirit of the game, and that’s what it’s truly about.



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Hasan Piker and Cenk Uygur denied entry to UK days before Oxford Union and Oxford Speaks events

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Cenk Uygur and Hasan Piker, both due to speak at the Oxford Union later this week, have been barred from entering the UK after the Home Office revoked their Electronic Travel Authorisations (ETAs).

Uygur and Piker had been scheduled to appear for an event advertised as “Joint Event & Student Head-to-Head” at the Union on 6th June. Both were also due to take part in events at South by Southwest London (SXSW), a music, film, and technology festival. Uygur was additionally expected to speak this term at an event hosted by Oxford Speaks.

Uygur is the founder and host of The Young Turks, an online news and politics talk show. Piker, Uygur’s nephew, is one of the most followed political livestreamers worldwide, with millions of followers across Twitch, YouTube, and X. Both are prominent figures in online left-wing commentary, particularly through their criticism of Israel’s actions in Gaza.

Ugyur announced the decision on social media on X last night, writing: “I’ve been banned from the UK. I tried to get on a flight to London to attend SXSW London and give a speech at Oxford. I’ve been banned for criticising Israel. Are we free anymore? This is oppression of Western citizens by our own governments on behalf of a different country!”

In a video published on The Young Turks channel this morning, Uygur added that he currently holds a two-year visa, which he understands to have been revoked, and described the decision as “a bit of a gut punch”.

Responding to Uygur’s tweet, Piker said that his authorisation had also been revoked, writing: “The UK has revoked my visa as well. all at the behest of Israel.” He also claimed that the decision reflected a broader abandonment of “liberal values” by Western governments.

A Home Office spokesperson told The Guardian that the pair’s ETAs had been cancelled because their presence in the UK “may not be conducive to the public good”. The spokesperson added that such decisions are based on assessments of the risk an individual may pose to society. 

According to The Times, concerns were raised by the Home Office about Uygur’s previous comments on Israel. The newspaper reported that the Home Office decision is understood to have been based on concerns that his presence could exacerbate antisemitism. The Times coverage also cited concerns regarding comments Uygur had made about grooming gang scandals in the UK.

Oxford Union President Arwa Elrayess told Cherwell that the Union was “deeply concerned” by the revocation of the speakers’ ETAs. She described the timing of the decision as “troubling” given that the event had been “publicly announced for months”. Elrayess added that the Union was founded on the principle that “ideas should be challenged through debate, not ignored or silenced”, and argued that invited speakers should be able to express their views and be challenged by members “irrespective of political viewpoint”.

Elrayess also told Cherwell that the Union would “not allow this event to be shut down”, and is exploring alternative options for the event, including hosting it online, and said the society remains “steadfast in its commitment to open debate”.

The decision follows criticism of both speakers from politicians and campaign groups. Last week, Labour MP David Taylor called for Piker to be prevented from speaking in the UK, and added in a tweet shared this morning: “Thank you Home Secretary for revoking Hasan Piker’s visa. There’s no reason to open our doors to those who seek to spread hate and division, especially to those who’ve supported a proscribed terror group.”

The Community Security Trust (CST), a charity which provides physical security, training, and advice to protect British Jews, also urged organisers of SXSW London not to provide Piker with a platform. CST accused him of “promoting rhetoric that includes antisemitic themes, denial of well-documented atrocities and apparent support for extremist groups”.

Piker has also faced criticism for a number of previous remarks. In 2019, he apologised after saying that “America deserved 9/11”, later describing the comments as inappropriate. He has also been criticised for comments about Hamas and Israel, including saying that he “would vote for Hamas over Israel every single time” on an episode of Pod Save America. Piker has repeatedly denied accusations of antisemitism, describing himself as anti-Israel rather than antisemitic.

The decision also comes amid ongoing controversy over speakers invited to the Oxford Union. Earlier this term, Carl Benjamin was disinvited from a Union debate following objections from student groups. Far-right figures such as Tommy Robinson and Laurence Fox are also due to speak at an event later in the term, which has incurred significant backlash from across the University and the Oxford community.



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