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The ‘big durian’: one day in Jakarta, the world’s largest city | Indonesia

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In December, the United Nations officially designated Jakarta the world’s largest city, hosting a staggering 42 million inhabitants. Michael Neilson speaks to several people who call the ‘big durian’ home – about the positives and the negatives – and how community and the city’s infamously dry humour get them through.

4am

Few things are more synonymous with Jakarta than the bright green jackets worn by the sprawling megacity’s more than a million ojek, or motorcycle taxi, drivers.

Like tens of millions in the world’s largest Muslim-majority nation, ojek driver Dicky Rio Suprapto, 48, wakes at 4am to pray. After dropping his two teenagers at school, he begins a 12-hour day navigating one of the world’s most congested cities.

Ojek driver Dicky Rio Suprapto. Photograph: Michael Neilson

Suprapto trained as an engineer, but has been out of formal work since 2017. After Covid-19, he turned to ojek driving, using ride-sharing apps.

In a city infamous for its deadlock traffic, Suprapto says he has to be creative. Rather than relying on maps, he draws upon his decades of knowledge of the city’s labyrinthine streets.

“I have already memorised it,” he says, “So it’s a shorter time.”

Utilising his knowledge of narrow alleyways, he transports people, food and packages through the city’s capillaries.

“[The customers] use our services, they want to [work to] earn money. That’s why I have the obligation to help the city, to make sure they reach their destination fast.”

Motorbikes and cars crossing

Despite the grind, pollution, and relentless macet (traffic), humour persists. After surviving brain surgery, he jokes about the tube in his head.

“I have a tube … so I am like ‘Robocop’, you know.”

He stops work at sunset due to light sensitivity, earning Rp400,000–500,000 a day (US$23-$29), which he says is “more than enough” to support his family, provided they live simply.

“Enjoy while you have it,” he says.

10am

Dhewa Radya, 22, represents a different Jakarta: young, highly educated, and plugged into the city’s burgeoning tech sector.

Dhewa Radya, a young tech worker in Jakarta. Photograph: Michael Neilson

He works in artificial intelligence and structures his life around avoiding the worst of the city’s congestion. Unlike many, he walks to work from his kost, or shared living space, in West Jakarta, which costs Rp1.6million ($92) a month to rent.

The pollution, however, is unavoidable. After a year, a check-up showed lung spots typical of passive smokers.

Jakarta is not his “favourite city,” he admits, but the best place to find work.

“In Jakarta, you can find everything … so it’s really good for [an] early career.”

Originally from Central Java, Radya is one of millions who move to Jakarta each year seeking better opportunities. He counts himself lucky, with youth unemployment about 17%, including many university graduates.

Longer term, he wants to go abroad, then return.

“The hope is I can go back to Indonesia, have a good impact, and also have better jobs, better life, better living quality.”

He is concerned about growing inequality, and – like many young Indonesians – isn’t shy to speak about politics, and apply a humorous Jakarta lens to current affairs.

“Even though the government screws us every day, the thing that we can only do is just to enjoy it,” he says, “No matter how hard it is, just go with it.”

1pm

By lunchtime, the city shifts again.

Neneng Muslimah, 45, runs a riverside family warteg, or traditional eatery, in the central business district of Kuningan, feeding office workers through a system born of necessity – and ingenuity.

The river highlights Jakarta’s evolution, and increasingly stark divide: crowded kampungs (villages) on one side, and five-star hotels and glass office towers on the other.

Neneng Muslimah, 45, runs a riverside family warteg in Jakarta. Photograph: Michael Neilson

Her warteg’s most distinctive feature is a pulley system used to deliver food across a gap left when a bridge was removed.

Starting work at 5am, the rush hits at noon.

“At 12pm, we get through about 100 portions,” she says.

Traditional meals – fried chicken with pungent sambal, rice, vegetable, and egg dishes – cost as little as Rp10,000 ($0.60).

Orders are shouted across the river – or sent via WhatsApp – and often paid using smartphone scanners attached to the basket.

“We prefer WhatsApp. If you shout, sometimes the order is wrong – our voices get carried away by the wind,” she says, adding that mistakes are sometimes part of the fun.

“Sometimes when we mishear an order, we just laugh. They might ask for coffee, and we deliver an iced drink.”

Despite rising living costs and the constant risk of flooding – driven by the city’s subsidence and heavier rains – Neneng says Jakarta has its own special beauty.

Highway traffic

“People from outside only know Jakarta for the traffic jams, the dirt, and the pollution … But once you’ve been here and felt it, then it becomes comfortable.

“The people are so friendly, so supportive. It is beautiful.”

6pm

As the day cools, the traffic returns.

At a busy intersection near the national monument – Monas – Faqih Ibnu Ali, 28, paints himself silver and steps into the road.

He is one of Jakarta’s street performing “manusia silver”, or “silvermen” – one of the city’s millions of informal workers.

Faqih Ibnu Ali, 28, who works as one of the city’s “silvermen’. Photograph: Michael Neilson

On a good day he earns about Rp200,000 ($11).

He works the morning rush hour and, after a short rest, from the afternoon until sometimes midnight.

Behind the metallic paint is a harder story.

A former fisher, he says he lost everything when his ship burned down. He now lives under a bridge with his wife and children. Years ago, he lost a son in a traffic accident.

“It feels sad,” he says, “But that’s life on the street, brother.”

He says he feels judged and like an outsider, left behind in the world’s largest city.

“If people look at me, it’s with one eye.”

His workplace reflects Jakarta’s growing inequality, as he weaves between air-conditioned SUVs and motorbike riders choking on exhaust fumes.

Highway traffic at night

Phones are hidden when he approaches.

“People are afraid they’ll be taken. It’s like I am not considered.”

And yet, he keeps going – for his children.

“We shouldn’t lose hope, don’t give up, it’s for the sake of the family.”



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Boy, 2, seriously hurt in nursery playground car crash

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A 63-year-old woman is arrested on suspicion of causing serious injury by dangerous driving.



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Backlash against ‘short-termist’ UK plans to weaken EV sales targets | Electric, hybrid and low-emission cars

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The UK government’s plans to further weaken electric car targets have provoked a furious backlash from the charging industry and the electric car brand Polestar, which would lose out from the changes.

The Labour government is expected to dilute rules known as the zero emission vehicle (ZEV) mandate. Government sources have said it will reduce a target for pure electric cars from 80% of all sales by 2030 to 50%.

The Labour government had already weakened the mandate last year by introducing loopholes – known as “flexibilities” – that allow the sale of more plug-in hybrid electric vehicles (PHEVs), which combine an engine with a small battery.

The slower shift to electric cars would be a huge blow in particular to the charging industry, which is investing on the basis of future demand.

Greg Jackson, the chief executive of Octopus Energy, said the government had chosen “short-termist incumbent lobbying instead of the long-term future of industry”. As well as being the UK’s largest retail energy provider, Octopus is also a large player in electric vehicle leasing and charging.

“The fossil fuel market is shrinking globally and our best hope is to speed up development of electric vehicles, not go the other way,” Jackson said. “This hesitation undermines the credibility of government commitments which were supposed to give certainty to investors.”

The charging industry has invested in infrastructure on the basis of future demand for electric vehicles. Photograph: Xiu Bao/Alamy

Vicky Read, the chief executive of the industry lobby group ChargeUK, said weakening the target was an “astonishing” proposal which could cost tens of thousands of jobs in the longer term.

“The charging sector has ploughed billions into putting chargers in the ground on the basis of this policy, ahead of profitability,” Read said. “This government said it would not flip-flop like the previous did. To move the goalposts again would be exactly that – an act of self-harm denying the country a forward facing, economically prosperous industry leaving us behind the rest of the world.”

The proposal would probably mean millions more cars with petrol engines on British roads and significantly higher carbon emissions. Plug-in hybrids produce about 135g of carbon dioxide per kilometre driven on average, compared with about 166g from petrol cars, according to T&E, a thinktank monitoring transport and environmental issues. Electric cars produce zero carbon directly and have much lower associated emissions over their lifetime.

The government’s decision followed heavy lobbying by car manufacturers as well as the Unite union, which represents many workers in British automotive factories. Unite’s general secretary, Sharon Graham, described the proposed changes as “a huge victory” and said it would “protect the jobs of UK automotive workers”.

However, Anna Krajinska, the UK director at T&E, argued that allowing more plug-in hybrid sales would ultimately harm the UK industry by leaving the door open to Chinese manufacturers. China’s Chery, owner of brands including Omoda and Jaecoo, and BYD, the world’s biggest electric carmaker, have sold about 30,000 cars each in the UK this year, many of them PHEVs.

“Slowing down targets and increasing hybrid sales will destroy the UK’s automotive sector,” Krajinska said. “Only a rapid transition to battery electrics can secure the future of UK manufacturing. For that to happen targets have to remain unchanged and [the business secretary] Peter Kyle needs to deliver a coherent and robust industrial policy to transition the sector and jobs.”

A weaker ZEV mandate would also represent a blow to manufacturers focusing on electric cars. Matt Galvin, the UK managing director of the Chinese-owned electric brand Polestar, said: “Weakening these targets allows car manufacturers to decelerate development of EVs at a time when they should be doing exactly the opposite and accelerating their investment and product offering.”



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Arrest over push of woman into bus's path in 2017

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A 44-year-old man is in custody over the incident where a woman appeared to be shoved into the path of a bus.



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