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The ‘big durian’: one day in Jakarta, the world’s largest city | Indonesia
In December, the United Nations officially designated Jakarta the world’s largest city, hosting a staggering 42 million inhabitants. Michael Neilson speaks to several people who call the ‘big durian’ home – about the positives and the negatives – and how community and the city’s infamously dry humour get them through.
4am
Few things are more synonymous with Jakarta than the bright green jackets worn by the sprawling megacity’s more than a million ojek, or motorcycle taxi, drivers.
Like tens of millions in the world’s largest Muslim-majority nation, ojek driver Dicky Rio Suprapto, 48, wakes at 4am to pray. After dropping his two teenagers at school, he begins a 12-hour day navigating one of the world’s most congested cities.
Suprapto trained as an engineer, but has been out of formal work since 2017. After Covid-19, he turned to ojek driving, using ride-sharing apps.
In a city infamous for its deadlock traffic, Suprapto says he has to be creative. Rather than relying on maps, he draws upon his decades of knowledge of the city’s labyrinthine streets.
“I have already memorised it,” he says, “So it’s a shorter time.”
Utilising his knowledge of narrow alleyways, he transports people, food and packages through the city’s capillaries.
“[The customers] use our services, they want to [work to] earn money. That’s why I have the obligation to help the city, to make sure they reach their destination fast.”
Despite the grind, pollution, and relentless macet (traffic), humour persists. After surviving brain surgery, he jokes about the tube in his head.
“I have a tube … so I am like ‘Robocop’, you know.”
He stops work at sunset due to light sensitivity, earning Rp400,000–500,000 a day (US$23-$29), which he says is “more than enough” to support his family, provided they live simply.
“Enjoy while you have it,” he says.
10am
Dhewa Radya, 22, represents a different Jakarta: young, highly educated, and plugged into the city’s burgeoning tech sector.
He works in artificial intelligence and structures his life around avoiding the worst of the city’s congestion. Unlike many, he walks to work from his kost, or shared living space, in West Jakarta, which costs Rp1.6million ($92) a month to rent.
The pollution, however, is unavoidable. After a year, a check-up showed lung spots typical of passive smokers.
Jakarta is not his “favourite city,” he admits, but the best place to find work.
“In Jakarta, you can find everything … so it’s really good for [an] early career.”
Originally from Central Java, Radya is one of millions who move to Jakarta each year seeking better opportunities. He counts himself lucky, with youth unemployment about 17%, including many university graduates.
Longer term, he wants to go abroad, then return.
“The hope is I can go back to Indonesia, have a good impact, and also have better jobs, better life, better living quality.”
He is concerned about growing inequality, and – like many young Indonesians – isn’t shy to speak about politics, and apply a humorous Jakarta lens to current affairs.
“Even though the government screws us every day, the thing that we can only do is just to enjoy it,” he says, “No matter how hard it is, just go with it.”
1pm
By lunchtime, the city shifts again.
Neneng Muslimah, 45, runs a riverside family warteg, or traditional eatery, in the central business district of Kuningan, feeding office workers through a system born of necessity – and ingenuity.
The river highlights Jakarta’s evolution, and increasingly stark divide: crowded kampungs (villages) on one side, and five-star hotels and glass office towers on the other.
Her warteg’s most distinctive feature is a pulley system used to deliver food across a gap left when a bridge was removed.
Starting work at 5am, the rush hits at noon.
“At 12pm, we get through about 100 portions,” she says.
Traditional meals – fried chicken with pungent sambal, rice, vegetable, and egg dishes – cost as little as Rp10,000 ($0.60).
Orders are shouted across the river – or sent via WhatsApp – and often paid using smartphone scanners attached to the basket.
“We prefer WhatsApp. If you shout, sometimes the order is wrong – our voices get carried away by the wind,” she says, adding that mistakes are sometimes part of the fun.
“Sometimes when we mishear an order, we just laugh. They might ask for coffee, and we deliver an iced drink.”
Despite rising living costs and the constant risk of flooding – driven by the city’s subsidence and heavier rains – Neneng says Jakarta has its own special beauty.
“People from outside only know Jakarta for the traffic jams, the dirt, and the pollution … But once you’ve been here and felt it, then it becomes comfortable.
“The people are so friendly, so supportive. It is beautiful.”
6pm
As the day cools, the traffic returns.
At a busy intersection near the national monument – Monas – Faqih Ibnu Ali, 28, paints himself silver and steps into the road.
He is one of Jakarta’s street performing “manusia silver”, or “silvermen” – one of the city’s millions of informal workers.
On a good day he earns about Rp200,000 ($11).
He works the morning rush hour and, after a short rest, from the afternoon until sometimes midnight.
Behind the metallic paint is a harder story.
A former fisher, he says he lost everything when his ship burned down. He now lives under a bridge with his wife and children. Years ago, he lost a son in a traffic accident.
“It feels sad,” he says, “But that’s life on the street, brother.”
He says he feels judged and like an outsider, left behind in the world’s largest city.
“If people look at me, it’s with one eye.”
His workplace reflects Jakarta’s growing inequality, as he weaves between air-conditioned SUVs and motorbike riders choking on exhaust fumes.
Phones are hidden when he approaches.
“People are afraid they’ll be taken. It’s like I am not considered.”
And yet, he keeps going – for his children.
“We shouldn’t lose hope, don’t give up, it’s for the sake of the family.”
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UK to pay France another £660m to curb Channel crossings | Migration
The UK government has agreed to pay France another £660m to curb the number of asylum seekers travelling across the Channel, including plans to fund a riot squad to “contain and disperse” people trying to board small boats.
Under a three-year deal to be signed on Thursday by the home secretary, Shabana Mahmood, 1,100 enforcement, intelligence and military officers – an increase of 40% – will be employed to track down smuggling gangs and people seeking refuge.
A 50-strong riot squad will be trained in “crowd-control tactics” and will “stop illegal migrants in their tracks”, according to the Home Office. UK cash is expected to fund batons, shields and teargas to deal with “hostile crowds and violent tactics”.
The announcement follows protracted negotiations between the two countries over how to halt unauthorised small boat journeys, and who should pick up most of the cost. The previous £478m, three-year deal collapsed on 31 March.
Organisations representing asylum seekers said plans to fund policing tactics such as riot control would mean the further brutalisation of people who have no alternative if they wish to seek refuge in the UK.
Sile Reynolds, head of asylum advocacy at the charity Freedom from Torture, said it was a “deeply alarming” escalation, adding: “Now, we will be paying for police boots and batons to be wielded indiscriminately against men, women and children on the beaches of northern France for the crime of seeking safety.
“Many of the people who will be harmed by these heavy-handed tactics have already endured state violence during their flight from persecution. Now they will face the full ferocity of the French riot police – a security body that has been criticised by the United Nations committee against torture for excessive use of force.”
Imran Hussain, the director of external affairs at the Refugee Council, said: “By focusing on policing the Channel, the government is treating the symptom not the cause. Policing alone will not prevent desperate people from turning to dangerous small boats in the first place.
“We know from our frontline services why people risk their lives to reach the UK: many already speak some English, have family here, or have cultural connections to Britain. Without safe routes to reach the UK, these men, women and children will be forced into dangerous and potentially deadly small boat crossings.”
French police have fired teargas canisters and stun grenades and used pepper spray in attempts to stop people boarding boats across the Channel. However, this is the first time the UK will fund a riot squad specifically to tackle irregular migration.
The new deal includes a baseline package of about £500m to boost enforcement action on beaches in northern France. The deal will cover:
Five new police units, including a riot squad of 50 officers who will be trained in the use of crowd control.
An additional 20 maritime officers to target and intercept small boats that pick up asylum seekers in shallow waters. In the past two months, French officials have stopped six “taxi boats”, sentencing smugglers to prison and deportation, the Home Office said.
An expansion of the 18-strong intelligence unit to 30 specialists to ramp up the arrest and prosecution of people smugglers.
Two new helicopters and a camera system to track down and intercept people smugglers and people seeking to cross to the UK.
The government has also put aside £160m “to trial new approaches”, but the Home Office did not respond to requests asking what these might be. In the first year of this arrangement, the UK will spend £50m, a statement said.
If the initial investment does not make an impact, the government will withhold the remaining £110m in years two and three, it says, billing it as the first “payment-by-results” scheme in the Channel.
Labour, which is predicted to lose councils to Nigel Farage’s Reform UK in the local elections, has come under increasing pressure from political opponents to curb irregular migration.
In a statement Keir Starmer, the prime minister, said: “Our work with the French has already stopped tens of thousands of crossings and this government has deported or returned nearly 60,000 people with no right to be here. This historic agreement means we can go further: ramping up intelligence, surveillance and boots on the ground to protect Britain’s borders.”
Mahmood said: “This landmark deal will stop illegal migrants making the perilous journey and put people smugglers behind bars.”
Earlier this month, a Sudanese man was charged over the deaths of four migrants who drowned after being swept away by strong currents while trying to cross the Channel. More than 6,000 people have arrived in the UK this year after making the journey, down 36% on the equivalent period last year.
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