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‘A diverse and convivial village’: the urban eye candy of Notre-Dame du Mont, Marseille | Marseille holidays
Why go now
Named for its 19th-century neoclassical church, Notre-Dame du Mont was once a site where sailors who’d survived shipwrecks and storms made offerings of thanks. Now locals and visitors make a pilgrimage to this vibrant quarter for its restaurants, indie shops and street art. Voted Time Out’s coolest neighbourhood in the world in 2024, Notre-Dame du Mont has retained its laid-back charm while continuing to grow, stretching south on Rue de Lodi. Since December 2025, the church’s parvis has been pedestrianised. Removing the urban roar of scooters has returned the quarter to its village-like ambience – best enjoyed on one of the many tree-lined terraces.
Where to eat and drink
The quarter reflects Marseille’s flourishing culinary scene: diverse, convivial and amplified by young chefs like Scot Megan Moore, who cooks up comfort fare with culinary heft at Bonnies. Its playlists and live jazz nights echo the vintage vibe of this former watering hole. For a taste of the Mediterranean, tuck into small plates and natural wines at Nabu & Jéro wine bar.
For food sur le pouce (on the go), check out the huge sandwiches at Razzia, which you can eat while soaking up the sun on their patio. Down the street at Durum, Sofiane Benouamane traded in his chef whites to make Levantine wraps stuffed with the most succulent meats – so gourmet that the tiny snack bar is lauded by the French gastronomic guide Gault & Millau.
Eco-friendly boulangerie Ferments creates baked delights to enjoy with small-batch coffee. For a slice of Marseille’s signature dish, order a wood-fired moitchié-moitchié (half anchovy, half emmental) at La Bella Pizza. Or, follow the scent of freshly baked crust to the Chez Papa pizza truck at the entrance to the Notre-Dame du Mont metro stop.
Where to shop
Food is also on the menu at many of Notre-Dame du Mont’s shops. Provisions’ wooden shelves are laden with an array of foodstuffs, wine and culinary books, including a small selection in English. Stay for a locally sourced lunch in the cosy shop. The fragrant tea library Lorène Millet brims with more than 200 varieties, and – thankfully – expert staff to help you choose.
Mo:stera Concept Store feeds many interests – coffee, plants and books, with a penchant for manga and graphic novels. A pioneer of the neighbourhood, the vintage fashion shop Out of Space is chock-a-block with retro finds for men and women. Digitale Pourpre stocks a well-curated selection of clothes from independent designers, while Digger Club has a funky mix of vintage finds.
Cultural experiences
Zones is a gallery that spotlights photographers from the city and the region, and owner Alice Ducheix makes photography “more accessible” by selling affordable prints. La Baleine shows arthouse films in its intimate 88-seat cinema plus restaurant.
La Cave à Vinyle is a bar with the feel of hanging out in the living room of a friend who’s obsessed with music and wine; sample natural, biodynamic bottles to an eclectic soundtrack, from French crooner Jacques Dutronc to the West African fusion Rail Band. Garage, one of Marseille’s many comedy clubs, hosts English-speaking comics on Friday nights.
Don’t miss
At Rue de Village and Rue de Lodi, marvel at the view of Marseille’s most famous monument – and highest point – La Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde. Stroll over to Cours Julien, the adjacent district, for urban eye candy. Every facade is painted with colourful street art, including the ever-changing staircase that descends to Cours Lieutaud.
Where to stay
Live like a local in the modern rooms with kitchenettes at the 18-room Maison Juste (doubles from €90). Sister property Grand Juste is a former convent with 50 rooms (sleeping up to six people) and a sunny garden (doubles from €93).
UK News
Turkey v Paraguay: World Cup 2026 – live | World Cup 2026
Key events
4 mins: Just minutes after scoring, Galarza receives the first yellow card of the match after careening into Yunus Akgun.
2 mins: Matias Galarza was brought into the starting XI for Paraguay and it’s paid off immediately. The midfielder picks up a ball and takes a step into space near the top of Turkey’s penalty area before rocketing a low shot into the bottom corner. Incredible opening moments.
GOAL! Paraguay 1-0 Turkey (Galarza 1)
It’s the fastest goal in the World Cup so far!
Kick-off!
Centre referee Ivan Barton toots his whistle and we’re underway.
And for those keen-eyed viewers who have noticed an unusual amount of hot-pink boots across the World Cup so far, including a bunch of players about to make their way out onto the grass for the anthems, here’s a great yarn from Lauren Cochrane about why.
Plenty of fans are flooding into San Fransisco Bay Area Stadium for today’s final match, which is sitting at a gorgeous 19 degrees C (67 degrees F) and clear skies. A perfect evening for football, which hopefully delivers much more focused and effective performances from both sides compared to their opening games.
Meanwhile, Brazil have held onto their 3-0 lead against Haiti to claim top spot in Group C, though it wasn’t as convincing a performance as what many had hoped from the South American giants against a relative minnow of world football. An injury to Raphinha will be a particular worry.
Matheus Cunha found the back of the net twice in the opening half, and Vinicus Jr made it two in two matches, after which Carlo Ancelotti’s side seemed more focussed on conserving energy and seeing out the clock than finding more goals. It is a decision that may come back to haunt them if goal difference is what separates them from Morocco at the top of Group C.

Sam Lewis
Turkey fans will be thrilled to see their two starlets, Arda Guler and Kenan Yildiz, starting their first World Cup match together.
Guler, the Real Madrid creative attacking midfielder, was kept largely at bay by Australia’s resolute defence a week ago, but still managed to deliver some sneaky through-balls and find small pockets of space in and around the penalty area. He’s also a free-kick specialist, so Paraguay will need to be careful not to give away too many fouls outside their own area.
Yildiz, meanwhile, made an immediate impact when he came on in the second half against the Socceroos. The Juventus winger added a new dimension to Turkey’s otherwise-muted left-sided attack, isn’t afraid to take on defenders one v one, and delivers some pin-point crosses and cut-backs for teammates to run onto.
With Guler moved into central midfield and Yunus Akgun brought onto the right side, the connection the two 21-year-olds can make could be the difference today.

Sam Lewis
A surprise start for attacker Isidro Pitta, who was so certain he wouldn’t be called up to Paraguay’s squad for the World Cup that he had already booked a holiday to Spain with his family during the tournament.
Nicknamed ‘Viking’ due to his long hair and big ginger beard, he’s found form at Red Bull Bragantino and is described as “a fighter, a tireless worker and a constant nuisance for opposition defences” in the Guardian’s World Cup player guide.
For more information about him, and plenty more fun and quirky facts about the two starting XIs, check out the guide below.
Paraguay XI
Sam Adams
Paraguay have also shuffled a few things around, making two changes from their 4-1 defeat to the USA last week.
Isidro Pitta replaces Antonio Sanabria to partner Enciso up front, while Matias Galarza comes into midfield in place of Damian Bobadilla. Here’s their squad to start today’s match.
Paraguay XI (4-4-2): 12 Gill; 6 Alonso, 3 Alderete, 15 Gomez, 4 Caceres; 10 Almiron, 23 Galarza, 14 Cubas, 8 Gomez; 25 Pitta, 19 Enciso.
Turkey XI

Sam Lewis
Three changes for Turkey following their defeat to Australia.
Juventus star Kenan Yildiz comes into the starting XI alongside right-back Mert Muldur and winger Yunus Akgun, with Orkan Kokcu, Baris Yilmaz, and Zeki Celik benched. Here’s their line-up.
Turkey (4-2-3-1): 23 Cakir, 18 Muldur, 3 Demiral, 14 Bardakci, 20 Kadioglu, 16 Yuksek, 10 Calhanoglu, 19 Akgun, 8 Guler, 11 Yildiz, 7 Akturkoglu.

Sam Lewis
Elsewhere, Brazil are maintaining a comfortable 3-0 lead over Haiti. If they maintain or extend that, they’ll leapfrog Morocco and sit pretty at the top of Group C.
Check out Jonathan Howcroft’s live updates below as we wait for the Turkey and Paraguay line-ups.

Sam Lewis
There are a few players worth keeping an eye on for both sides today.
Despite struggling to break down a resolute Australian defence, Turkey’s Arda Guler continued chipping away with neat little passes and crosses, and always found small pockets to drift into around the penalty area.
Team-mate and elder statesman Hakan Calhanoglu is Turkey’s midfield engine, while winger Kenan Yildiz made an immediate impact when he came off the bench a week ago.
For Paraguay, Julio Enciso was one of their better performers in their loss to the USA on the first match day, assisting the consolation goal from substitute Mauricio in the second half.
Andres Cubas also did his best to hold Paraguay’s shape through midfield, but was regularly overwhelmed by the USA’s press.
There will be a lot for both sides to improve upon today. Let’s see if they can.

Sam Lewis
Here’s a bit more info about where to watch today’s Turkey v Paraguay match thanks to our friend Graham Ruthven, who sets the scene for us below.
Turkey have a point to prove after a shock opening defeat to Australia. Vincenzo Montella’s side struggled to create against a low block and could run into many of the same problems again if Paraguay are able to keep things tight at the back in the way they weren’t against the USA.
Paraguay were powerless to stop the USA running over them in Los Angeles, but have much more to offer if their qualification campaign is anything to go by. Anything less than a draw would all but end their hopes of making it through to the last 32.
Want more on today’s earlier Group D game between co-hosts USA and Australia? Our team in Seattle has you covered.

Sam Lewis
We’re already starting to see the shape of some other groups as match day two continues at the World Cup.
Mexico became the first nation to secure knock-out football after a 1-0 victory over South Korea in Group A.
Canada and Switzerland both recorded wins in Group B to draw level with each other on 4 points apiece.
Finally, Morocco edged past Scotland 1-0 to move to 4 points in Group C, with Brazil currently taking on Haiti to potentially join them there.
If following every game is simply too much for you, the wonderful fellas at Guardian Football Weekly are recording daily wraps for your pleasure – now also in video format!

Sam Lewis
Looking at the group’s permutations, both Turkey and Paraguay will now have Australia squarely in their sights after the Socceroos lost 2-0 to hosts USA earlier today.
A win for either team today will bring them level on points with Australia (3), though exactly where they’ll end up – second or third – will be decided by goal difference.
The USA are all but through to the round of 32 after their comprehensive win, sailing into their third and final group game on six comfy points. Here’s Alexander Abnos on the match:
As John Denver’s Country Roads blared over the Seattle Stadium PA, they celebrated history: a spot in the knockout round secured with a game to spare, two wins to start a World Cup for the first time since 1930, a big moment for a breakout star in goalscorer Alex Freeman, and the continuation of a journey that US Soccer hope will be transformative for the sport in their country.
“We built the victory in our attitude,” Mauricio Pochettino said. “Today, even if I am not American, after the game I was emotional … To connect with the people is what we wanted.”
Preamble

Sam Lewis
Hello friends and welcome to live coverage of Group D’s second match between Turkey and Paraguay. Kick-off at San Francisco Bay Area Stadium is scheduled for 8:00pm local time (11pm EDT/4am BST/1pm AEST).
Both sides come into this crucial clash having lost their opening matches in rather startling fashion. Turkey, favoured by many to top the group, unexpectedly lost 2-0 to Australia, while Paraguay were picked apart by hosts USA 4-1 a week ago.
Neither team was especially convincing in those losses. Turkey’s dominant possession did not translate into convincing chances, creating an average xG of just 0.04 despite having two of the tournament’s most exciting young attackers in Arda Guler and Kenan Yildiz.
Paraguay, meanwhile, were defensively shambolic, allowing the USA to have 53 touches in their own penalty area: the second-most behind Curaçao’s destruction at the hands of Germany. They did pull a goal back from their only shot on target, but that glimmer of hope papered over some much deeper cracks.
As a result, each side will be looking to restore a bit of dignity and repair their negative goal difference as the door to the round of 32 slowly closes in front of them. The loser of this match will almost certainly be sent home.
This is the first high-stakes match between Turkey and Paraguay in their history, with their only other meeting coming in a friendly over a decade ago, so it’ll be a match of discovery for both sides as they try to save a bit of face.
I’ll be back with the line-ups shortly, but in the meantime, what did you think of the opening performances of these two sides? Which result shocked you more? And how do you reckon this one will play out? Send me an email at samantha.lewis.freelance@guardian.co.uk
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Saibari strikes after 70 seconds as Morocco puncture Scotland’s World Cup party | World Cup 2026
Scotland would have taken this outcome after 70 seconds. Ismael Saibiri had fired this highly-rated Moroccan team ahead. Men in kilts gulped under the blazing Massachusetts sun. Scotland may even privately have taken this outcome before a ball was kicked. Avoidance of a comprehensive defeat against Brazil will leave them with at least a fighting chance of becoming the first Scotland team to progress to the knockout phase of a major tournament.
Easier said than done, of course, but a scenario where history remains within the grasp of Steve Clarke and his players. Onwards to Miami, for what promises to be quite the spectacle. The value in beating Haiti by a goal or only losing this by the same will all be apparent by full-time on Wednesday. The Tartan Army need calculators in hand.
Morocco will feel frustration when assessing this game, despite the claiming of four points out of six. They have individual and collective ability to dwarf that of Scotland, which at times was perfectly obvious. Nonetheless, victory by only a single goal leaves the sense of a team failing to make the most of opportunity. They will want to be much more ruthless against Haiti.
The good news for Scotland at the interval was that they only trailed by a goal. There were ominous similarities to the opening game of Euro 2024, when the Scots froze in the first period and were 3-0 down to Germany. As then, Clarke’s team were jittery and ragged. Players in navy shirts seemed surprised when opponents tried to hassle them off the ball. Scotland were dreadful in possession and lacked attacking impetus, until a stoppage time flurry not in keeping with anything that had come before. John McGinn had a half chance then, which he miscued from Andy Robertson’s cross.
Clarke had sprung a surprise with the deployment of Kieran Tierney on the left of a five man midfield. The widespread assumption had been Clarke would opt for a five-man defensive line. Instead, four was maintained with Tierney ahead of Robertson.
Scotland had little chance to find their positional bearings when Saibari cracked Morocco in front. Braham Díaz’s lofted pass deceived Grant Hanley, who appealed in vain for offside as Saibari ghosted in behind him. With a single touch, Saibari finished high beyond Angus Gunn. Scots on the pitch and in the stands were shellshocked.
It could and should have been much worse for Clarke by the break. His team had chased shadows. Morocco moved the ball with an urgency and menace that their opponents could not handle. After Ryan Christie was all-too easily shrugged off the ball, Azzedine Ounahi played a glorious ball across goal that somehow eluded both Díaz and Saibari.
Gunn reacted sharply to deny Achraf Hakimi, who had baffled the Scottish defence with an underlapping run. In front of the watching Pep Guardiola, both Ounahi and Bilal El Khannouss shot over the bar. Despite being comfortably the superior side, Morocco’s slender advantage fuelled Scottish hope.
The Scots did indeed start the second half in much more competent fashion. They screamed for a penalty as McGinn tumbled under the challenge of Neil El Aynaoui. Any such award would have been soft. Morocco responded immediately, Jack Hendry deflecting Saibari’s shot onto the crossbar before Gunn clawed an El Khannouss header out of his top corner.
An injury to Tierney triggered the introduction of Ben Gannon-Doak in the 60th minute. While the switch was enforced, Clarke would inevitably have turned towards the Bournemouth forward anyway. Instead it was Christie who threatened after collecting a pass from the hitherto anonymous Scott McTominay. By the final hydration – advert – break of the game, it had clearly flatlined. Morocco, who tend not to be high scorers, had failed to properly press home their superiority. Scotland, while still in the game, looked blunt. A World Cup classic, this was not.
Díaz dallied on the ball when Saibari stood in space and within yards of the Scotland goal. This final ball element had cost Morocco umpteen times.
Scotland screamed again for a penalty, this time after McTominay stumbled when seeking to evade El Aynaoui. The referee’s dismissal of the appeal was perfectly fair. This came, however, in a closing spell where the Scots were on the front foot. McTominay’s shot was deflected into side-netting with five minutes of regulation time to play. It was no coincidence that Scotland had markedly improved as McTominay’s influence on proceedings grew.
Morocco, who were profligate on the counterattack, did not look entirely comfortable as Scotland closed the game in route one style. With seconds remaining, the Scots won a corner. Near post, cleared. It’s only Brazil next.
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