Student Life
Greening the Met Gala through Oxford fashion
With Anna Wintour trotting around New York and cosying up with Lauren Sanchez Bezos, it is no surprise that the 2026 Met Gala is hitting highly controversial seas. The gala itself needs no introduction: as the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s fundraiser, it is undoubtedly the world’s highest profile fashion event, with the red (or pink, or blue) carpet rolled out every first Monday in May to a galaxy of camera flashbulbs. Instantly dubbed the party of the year, it was founded in 1948 by publicist Eleanor Lambert to establish the self-funded Costume Institute. High-flying dictators of fashion – like Diana Vreeland and Anna Wintour today – have turned the Met Gala from a New York high-society dinner into a global phenomenon pumped with star power.
Wintour has co-chaired almost every gala since 1995, icily manning high fashion’s gates. Even the Kardashians – having become a fixture at the Met – were barred until they had seemingly ‘proved’ their fashion force in 2013. However, Wintour’s endorsement of Sanchez Bezos as co-chair and lead sponsor has led many to question the Met Gala’s stance on Trump’s tech-tycoon administration, enabling the purchasing of cultural capital alongside political power. Their combination of sunglasses and cinched Galliano is a poor formulation for this year’s glamour. The price of a ticket is $75,000; a table, $350,000. Seeming increasingly in the pockets of America’s billionaires, the Met Gala is no longer the escapism it used to be.
All that said, this year’s theme of Costume Art posits an interesting stance on fashion. The newly released catalogue cover speaks volumes about the complicated stance of the body as an artistic and biological symbol: Jacques Fabien Gautier Dagoty’s flayed image of a woman’s back (with her coyly – and very oddly – looking over her shoulder at the viewer) draws on corsetry fashions rather than actual anatomy, evoking fashion’s aestheticising power on art – even in the slightly gory case of a woman’s ribs. Robert Wun and Thomas Browne Couture have since offered their own interpretations, with muscular, dressed embodiment implied through sequins and tissue-thin leaves of fabric.
However, bodily shapes also resurface in art, with Niki de Saint Phalle’s exuberantly coloured, full-figured woman in her sculpture Nana and Serpent, adversely conjuring the extraordinary corsetry of Michaela Stark. Stark’s garments redefine beauty ideals through reshaping the body in an unconventional way, maintaining a respect for the individual wearer’s physique by emphasising curves in a technique combining custom-made lingerie and references to the Shibari rope-tying method. The theme essentially conveys a deeply embodied artistic and sensual relationship with the body, at a time when getting back in touch with our own humanity is no bad thing.
Of course, such themes often get lost in the Met Gala’s media whirlwind. Craftsmanship falls secondary to the celebrity, completing the paradox that the stars provide an unmissable platform for a brand’s garments, often footing the bill for celebrity attendance. Yet costume art (when taken more literally) also implies the painstaking haute couture process used to create the gowns: a slow, personally tailored technique antithetical to fast fashion’s constant churn. Unfortunately, not the paradigm of sustainability either, the slower ethos of high fashion is nonetheless applicable to student wardrobes. Elevating her second-hand shopping to Gucci for the 2022 Met Gala, Billie Eilish’s pale green and peach gown used deadstock fabric to create an ensemble from entirely pre-existing elements. This evokes recent online trends for garment embellishment, using simple and quick sewing techniques to upgrade an item that owners had fallen out of love with. It proves a cheaper way of updating personal style, as well as a welcome revision break. Following a viral recreation of a cardigan worn by Harry Styles in lockdown, JW Anderson released the original crochet pattern with a tutorial. Sustainability in fashion is collaborative, as healthy for our wellbeing as for our wardrobes.
The prime example of sustainable, collaborative costume art in Oxford comes from an unexpected tradition. Oxford’s month of May is heralded by an altogether different celebration than the Met Gala, marking the start of summer through pagan and Celtic origins. For many students, the early morning at Magdalen Tower is addled with hangovers and sleep deprivation, but it is still often possible to spot the Green Man in the crowds and various Morris dancing troupes. With feathers, flowers, and leaves in hair, the materials used to indicate summer’s return are naturally tied to the season. Furthermore, the costumes worn by such celebratory groups are often collaboratively handmade or embellished, passed down and adjusted through generations.
Social media slow fashion trends reflect what has long been embedded in folk and May Day traditions. This is most evident with the Jack in the Green figure, a more modern spectacle in Oxford tradition that involves someone donning a huge wicker frame, which is covered in greenery and ribbons. Of course, this is linked to a more spiritual vision of costume art, posing a locally-grounded perspective on clothing sustainability. The Met’s own take on the theme will inevitably come outfitted with billionaires and celebrities vying for coverage at an event that feels notably detached from the current economically divided world. Yet, as Oxford students, we can take a theme already embedded in city traditions and use it as a sustainable fashion impetus for rewearing.
Student Life
Oxford University launches Ebola vaccine trial in Uganda
Ugandan participants in a clinical safety study received an Oxford developed Ebola vaccine this week.
Researchers vaccinated the first participants on 6th October in Masaka, Uganda. The phase follows the launch of a first-in-human Phase I trial in the UK evaluating the same vaccine candidate.
They received the vaccine as part of an evaluation of the safety and efficacy of a ChAdOx-based Bundibugyo Ebola vaccine candidate developed by the Oxford Vaccine Group (OVG) and the Pandemic Sciences Institute at the University of Oxford.
Development for this vaccine began in May this year in response to the ongoing Ebola outbreak in the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC). The research, led by OVG’s Professor Teresa Lambe and Professor Simon Drysdale, is funded by the Coalition for Epidemic Preparedness Innovations (CEPI). No licenced vaccine for the Bundibugyo strain of Ebola virus currently exists.
In a statement to Cherwell, OVG said its involvement includes collaborating with the Ugandan research team to support “the study’s scientific design, clinical trial coordination, safety oversight, and evaluation of vaccine safety and immunogenicity”. The Phase I clinical trial addresses a rare strain of Ebola virus affecting communities in the DRC since May. The phase is a collaboration between the Medical Research Council/ Uganda Virus Research Institute and the London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine (LSHTM).
Dr Nicole Lurie, CEPI’s Executive Director for Emergency Preparedness and Response, told Cherwell: “It [the Bundibugyo outbreak] remains the fastest-growing and second-largest Ebola outbreak ever recorded – and we currently remain without a licensed vaccine or treatment.” The Bundibugyo Ebola epidemic in the DRC has surpassed 8,600 cases, with almost half of infections proving fatal.
The outbreak was declared a Public Health Emergency of International Concern (PHEIC) by the World Health Organisation (WHO) in May.
OVG told Cherwell: “For more than a decade, the University of Oxford has performed many clinical trials of candidate viral-vectored vaccines. Some of the most promising vaccines used a modified chimpanzee adenovirus, a harmless version of a common cold virus. The Oxford-AstraZeneca (ChAdOx1) COVID-19 vaccine was approved for emergency use in the UK in December 2020 and was estimated to have saved six million lives during 2021 alone, and over 3 billion doses were used worldwide.” The adenovirus vector vaccine technology trialled in this study was successfully used worldwide as part of the Oxford-AstraZeneca COVID-19 vaccine.
More funding is necessary to ensure the development and approval of the Ebola vaccine. Lurie told Cherwell: “Without sufficient additional funding, we are at risk of not being able to develop these promising vaccine candidates… CEPI urgently needs US$128M now to keep our Bundibugyo emergency R&D response moving. Without it, we are putting the DRC, and the world, at tremendous risk.”
Student Life
Why does everyone like East of Eden so much?
Spoilers Ahead!!
East of Eden is a special book in many ways. It is beautiful, for one, and loving too. John Steinbeck dedicated it to his editor and long-term friend Pascal ‘Pat’ Covici. In the preface, he describes East of Eden as though it were a box, a wrapped gift; for his dear friend, the author has packaged “the pleasure of design and some despair and the indescribable joy of creation”, there is also “on top of these” “the love I have for you”. Above that “gratitude and love,” trapped with all the “joy” and “despair,” is the empty space of human potential: “Still the box is not full.”
Steinbeck was born in 1902 in Salinas; thus, an unmistakable personal nostalgia colours the voice of the semi-autobiographical narrator. “I remember my childhood names for grasses and flowers,” he begins on the first page, “I remember where a toad might live and what time the birds awaken in the summer”. Throughout, despite, or perhaps because of, the various horrors the author explores, he always makes time for nature. In chapter eight we meet Cathy, one of those “monsters born in the world to human parents”. Amongst the schemes of her girlhood, Steinbeck remembers to mention “the young grass” that “bristled under the sun” and “the yellow dandelions”. In part, I think the explosion in East of Eden’s popularity is due to Steinbeck’s affection for Salinas Valley. The compulsiveness of his characters is present, as always, so is his ability to render any landscape powerful, visceral in prose. But there is something, ironically, lapsarian about East of Eden: it is a relic of the author’s own childhood.
Everyone enjoys beauty; a beautiful book, written in a determinedly readable style, is bound to become popular, not to mention the endless power of nostalgia. But there is something else in East of Eden, I believe, that has catapulted it from the fame of every book-tok influencer’s favourite lists to a multi-million dollar Netflix show. I read the book in 2023, perhaps a little ahead of the curve – if that’s possible for a book published in 1925. Since then, I have recommended East of Eden to everyone who asks. But, I would not say it is my favourite book; it might not be in my top five. Rather, I recommend East of Eden in the same way a film buff recommends Good Will Hunting.
It’s feel-good; it’s the ultimate feel-good book because it tells you that your life is your choice. Be good, be bad, be a little bit the one and a little bit the other: just don’t imagine for a second that it is not under your control to be so. The message emerges slowly over the first few hundred pages, but arrives suddenly at the forefront in chapter 24, through the voice of Lee, a Chinese man who cares for Adam Trask’s boys when both father and mother have abandoned them. Adam Trask, of course, embodies his biblical namesake as husband to the ‘monster’ Cathy, and father to the Cain/Abel parallel, Cal and Aran.
Lee describes the arduous process of translating Hebrew with four elderly Chinese gentlemen who live in San Francisco, smoking opium and solving whatever problems people bring them. After two years, he and the four elderly gentlemen can translate the passage – thus resolving a discrepancy in English translations of the Bible. “The American version orders men to triumph over sin… The King James translation makes a promise… But the Hebrew word, the word timshel – ‘thou mayest’ – that gives a choice,” Lee concludes, “It might be the most important word in the world”. Regardless of whether or not Steinbeck’s Hebrew translation is correct, which it likely isn’t, he’s right that ‘may’ is the most important word in the world: it is the belief in choice, the hope at the bottom of the jar, the empty space in the box that is “still not full”.
If it weren’t couched in the natural beauty of Salinas Valley, or the fascinating moral drama of the Trask and Hamilton families, Steinbeck’s message wouldn’t work so well. That said, the message is central to the book. Whilst other authors of his period reach for obscurity, designing their work to be a puzzle, a dream that requires clever interpretation, Steinbeck teaches a lesson. He delivers an earnest sermon. East of Eden is didactic; it is a fantastic book, it has beautiful language and compelling characters, but it is ultimately didactic. People enjoy reading it because it gives them a sense of control: Netflix could gamble millions on its popularity because they knew it was something that made people feel good about themselves, something they would want to watch on the screen.
East of Eden is a book like Pandora’s Box. It is well crafted, beautiful to look at. Inside, the author examines what he sees as the fringes of humanity, our best and worst parts: “Pain and excitement are in it, and feeling good or bad and evil thoughts and good thoughts.” When all this has been discarded, when we think the box is nearly empty and the indomitable Trask lies dying, Steinbeck presents us with the final gift. It is the word timshel, the choice to be good or bad in our lives: hope.
Student Life
Innovation and technology define Vice-Chancellor’s annual Oration
Vice-Chancellor Professor Irene Tracey opened the new academic year on Wednesday, 7th October, with the annual Oration at the Sheldonian Theatre.
The Oration allows the Vice-Chancellor to define the priorities of the University’s highest office and reflect upon the past year at the University. This year, these include AI ethics, bridging the gap between “town and gown”, and the increasing importance of scientific innovation for the University.
The Vice-Chancellor commented on the University’s influential role in shaping the AI landscape, both through technical research and noting work on AI governance from the newly launched Oxford Institute of Technology and Justice. Tracey referenced the university-wide rollout of ChatGPT-5 last year, while stressing the need for places where “students are taught to think critically and independently”. She identified Oxford’s tutorial system as a “unique asset” in combating the potential pitfalls of AI in learning.
Tracey also spoke about local community work, such as partnering with the homelessness charity Emmaus Oxford: “I want my hometown people to actually feel that having the world’s number one university on their doorstep really does make their lives better.”
From the start, the Vice-Chancellor also referenced that the turmoil facing British politics today might reflect “a nation not sure of its identity”.
As for Oxford’s identity, Tracey pointed at the role of innovation and STEM, lauding a dizzying array of successes.“It is estimated that over two billion people worldwide are using or benefiting from a piece of research that came from Oxford… that’s impact,” the Vice-Chancellor said.
The Vice-Chancellor also praised the “eye-watering investment” that Oxford quantum spin-outs have attracted. One such spinout, Oxford Ionics, was acquired for $1.075 billion by US-listed IonQ last year, while Oxford Quantum Circuits (OQC) closed a £260 million funding round this June – the highest ever won in Europe by a quantum computing company.
“I sense we’re more comfortable now owning [innovation] as part of our identity,” the Vice-Chancellor said.
For a university traditionally prized for the humanities and philosophy, with eight out of the last eleven prime ministers studying at Oxford, this is a notable shift.
The Vice-Chancellor went on to link these achievements in innovation to strong investment, referencing the University’s £6.9 billion in net asset value. In it, she thanked the Syrian-Saudi Arabian businessman and philanthropist Wafic Saïd for a “transformational” £15 million donation to the new Global Leadership Centre.
The Vice-Chancellor then spoke about Oxford’s unique financial stability amongst struggling UK universities, calling for “that difficult national conversation about how we fund the UK higher education sector”. Just last week Nottingham University confirmed the closures of all modern language and music degree courses. However, Oxford is not immune to financial pressures. Oxford University Press workers are also still striking over offshoring jobs to India.
The Vice-Chancellor also affirmed her support for diversity in higher education. She said: “If you are serious about excellence, the potential for excellence and finding top talent, you will end up with a diverse team.” “Look at the Premier League, or my beloved Everton”, she said.
As said at the beginning of this year’s oration, the Vice-Chancellor concluded by arguing that “at this critical point in our collective history”, the University would make a mark on Britain’s identity as a “place of ambition, excellence, kindness and hope”.
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