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How a mother turned her drowned daughter’s passion into a thriving patisserie | Germany
Johanna Orth was a fun-loving, determined little girl and later a purpose-driven young woman who revelled in making a creative mess in the kitchen. Her parents, Inka and Ralph, chuckle quietly as they remember the stacks of batter-covered bowls, spatulas and whisks repeatedly left in the sink.
With time, Johanna’s cakes and pastries grew more sophisticated and elaborate, guided by her grandmother, Marlies, who was also a talented baker. Marlies’ own ambition of opening a cafe one day had been thwarted by the demands of motherhood and postwar Germany’s rigid gender roles.
Johanna inherited the dream and worked hard to make it a reality, completing the rigorous training to become a certified master patissière who could hold her own with the rarefied global cadre of magicians of the sweet.
In 2021, aged 22, she was completing her business school training before opening her own shop named for Marlies when a freak summer deluge bore down on her home town of Bad Neuenahr, in western Germany’s Ahr valley. The river’s water levels peaked at nearly 10 metres, roughly twice those recorded during the previous record flood five years before.
On the night of 14-15 July, a panicked Johanna called her parents on holiday in Spain as the waters rushed into her ground-floor flat. As she told them her furniture was beginning to float around her sitting room, the line went dead.
Their daughter’s body was found two days later in a parking garage, her slight frame probably carried away by the current when she tried to escape via her terrace door. She was among more than 220 people who perished across Europe in the disaster.
“That was the unspeakable night we’ll never forget, which took our beloved daughter away from us,” Inka said.
The Orths share a blinding grief that they say only other parents who have lost a child can comprehend. The residence for senior citizens that they ran was destroyed in the flood, their sense of meaning and even will to live washed away with the raging river.
For 10 weeks, Inka retreated inside their home in agony and avoided contact with neighbours, who would sometimes cross the street to avoid them and their crushing loss. Then one morning, she woke up with her first glimmer of hope since her daughter’s death.
“I wanted to understand what drove her passion,” said Inka. She started looking for a pastry academy that would enrol an amateur in her late 50s and finally found one in the university city of Ulm. After enjoying one confectionery class, she signed up for another 15 courses.
While Ralph threw himself into his work back home trying to revive their business, Inka struggled at first with the delicate arts of pulling sugar, laminating doughs and conching chocolate.
“I had tears in my eyes because nothing was working,” she said. “And then I thought: ‘Johanna, help me – give me a hand.’”
At a workshop on gelatines – “very dry”, Inka remembers – she met a talented fellow student, Marcel Reinhardt, who was just half a year younger than Johanna. They formed an instant bond and when Inka eventually told him about the loss of her daughter, he didn’t recoil at her pain.
She had found her future business partner for what would become Patisserie Johanna.
Ralph, a soft-spoken man with a knack for sales, recalls the birth of his wife’s idea for a new venture as something that quickly gave them both a sense of shared purpose, a point on the horizon to strive for.
The 62-year-old notes how much strain the death of a child puts on the parents’ relationship, with each locked in their own struggle for survival. But he said their project became something that shored up and even strengthened their marriage.
“Parents losing a child goes so completely against the natural order that we no longer had any desire to live,” Ralph said. Their connection to their grown son Max and his family and the prospect of a Patisserie Johanna pulled them back from the brink.
The couple decided to seek a spot far from the still flood-ravaged Ahr valley and settled on Hamburg, one of their favourite cities, with a vibrant urban centre and teeming tourist industry that could sustain a high-end cake shop and cafe.
Their search for the right location turned up a 700 sq metre space in the Unesco-listed warehouse district – a cavernous 19th-century cocoa storage facility made of elegant red brick. “It was perfect,” said Inka.
Since opening in February 2024, the business has continued to grow, with an expanding team in the open on-site kitchen, Ralph said. They now employ about 30 staff.
On a bustling afternoon before Easter, the seasonal pastries, chocolates and gateaux were arrayed in glass display cases, spotlit like jewels. Certificates from multiple German Chocolate Awards line the entrance, where a short red carpet welcomes customers.
And Johanna, of course, is everywhere.
Large portraits of the striking, chestnut-haired woman with kind eyes hang on the walls. Inka and Ralph used a butterfly – a symbol they associate with their daughter’s enduring presence – as the shop’s logo. Filigree wings adorn many of the petit fours, including a special edition they offer each 1 June, Johanna’s birthday.
Their daughter’s best friend, Franzi, helped with their online marketing and now oversees the business’s social media presence from the store. And a lifesize bronze sculpture depicts Johanna seated with one of her beloved cats, who also died in the flood, under one hand, a chocolate praline in the other.
The Orths say the shop has become something of a pilgrimage site for parents who have lost children. When they meet other grieving couples, the initial communication is often wordless. Some reach for a hug as soon as they see them.
“That is fine,” Ralph said, tears welling in his eyes.
The couple recall an elderly woman last year who, having read about the shop, told them she took the train from Berlin just to deposit a single white rose on the statue in Johanna’s memory. “I still get goose pimples when I think of it – it was indescribable,” Inka said.
Ralph has become an “informal” representative of the families who lost loved ones in the Ahr valley flood, and has campaigned for the political officials who failed to order an emergency evacuation to be brought to justice. Their legal action is still pending.
The Orths commute the 300 miles (500km) back to Bad Neuenahr most weeks to see family and visit Johanna’s grave. But they said Hamburg, which experienced its own flood catastrophe in 1962, had done a better job of learning from the disaster than their home region.
With climate change increasing the frequency and severity of flooding, Ralph said he was angry more German urban areas were not adopting best practice when it came to measures such as early-warning systems. “It’s like everyone wants to reinvent the wheel instead of looking at where things work well.”
The couple never speak of “moving on”. The constant reminders of their daughter ground them and help mitigate her wrenching absence.
The shop, meanwhile, is firmly centred around community and life’s great pleasures.
“This is not the patisserie of mourning,” Inka said. “For us it’s, of course, the highest compliment when people leave here happy.”
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Spain v Saudi Arabia: World Cup 2026 – live | World Cup 2026
Key events
In the opening half an hour against Cape Verde, Mikel Oyarzabal, the centre-forward, did not get a single touch.
Kyle Green gets in touch: “Your highlighting of Lalas and his absurdity is something that has prevented me from wanting to watch the coverage on Fox. While every channel has its pros and cons I just can’t.
“I’m 45 and probably the youngest of anyone who remembers him as a player instead of an opinionated insert insult here. As for the match this could be more competitive than it looks on paper Spain need a win the pressure is on them. Saudi Arabia could hold out for a draw and see what happens in their last match. “
News from the England camp, and it seems to be good news on Declan Rice.
“I’m ready and fit, raring to go. I was feeling a little bit of neural pain in my hamstring, which I was managing from after Christmas with Arsenal for a very long time. Obviously, not a lot of people would have known that. It was all behind-the-scenes stuff but it was a smart decision.
“In the end, that last 20 minutes is probably where you pick up the most, and it’s where you play a 70-minute match. But that last 20 is where you really feel your body going for it. And I think it was a smart decision because the last few days I felt really, really good.”
Alex Reid has penned today’s weekend special Football Daily.
Portugal v Uzbekistan on Tuesday enticingly pits the incredibly nice, incredibly 41-year-old-superstar-tolerant Roberto Martínez against Fabio Cannavaro, who’s won a Ballon d’Or as a player and the Chinese Super League as a coach. While the fixture following that game really does see the dream of Thomas Tuchel – in his first international job with England – taking on Queiroz, who is in charge of his ninth national side with Ghana.
The expected formations are 4-2-3-1 for Spain, and 5-3-2 for the Saudi Arabians.
The Saudi team features two Donis changes: Ali Lajami, a defender, and Nasser Al Dawsari, a midfielder, are preferred to Mohammed Abu Al Shamat and Mohamed Kanno. You may recall Salem Al Dawsari, the Saudi captain, as the man who scored the winner against Argentina.
An entertaining read, even for those of us who have just seen the clips.
In a conversation where his co-panelist is casually reminiscing about his days playing alongside Messi or exchanging shirts with Ronaldo Nazário at the World Cup, what exactly is Lalas going to talk about – coming on as a second-half substitute for Earnie Stewart in a friendly against Scotland in 1998? Helping the Kansas City Wizards finish last in the 1999 MLS Western Conference? Did Lalas enjoy an elite playing career? No. But does he do the background reading that could compensate for his relative lack of standing in a conversation with titans like Henry and Zlatan? Also no. But is he charming or funny or charismatic or otherwise magnetic on screen? Eh, no.
For the record, I once interviewed Alexi Lalas on the challenge of playing against Romario in the 1994 World Cup. He had this to say:
“He could kill you in so many different ways. If you remember from that World Cup, he scored so many types of goals. That ranged from solo adventures to an outside-of-the-right-foot half-volley off a corner kick. Romario was both the most difficult to play against and the best that I have faced.
“Roberto Baggio was doing his thing, but in terms of consistency and living up to the hype, he [Romario] was the best. As with all stars, there was a moment when the fans sit up in their seats, and that was a feeling I got with Romario. When it got close to him and the potential for his involvement in a play was there, everybody sat up in their seat. They knew that something spectacular would be happening.”
Saturday’s match reports here.
The Saudi Arabia coach, and Blackburn legend, Georgios Donis, spoke about the challenges facing his team: “Spain is not the same team when Yamal or Williams are on the bench.
“While they still have plenty of possession, they lack the individual one-on-one penetration when these two are missing. I’m not saying it’s a problem for Spain, but when those players are missing, they play in a different way. We saw this very clearly against Cape Verde.
“We are playing against one of the best teams in the world, and it’s very important that when you play against these kinds of teams, you should enjoy the experience and respect the opponent, but not too much.
“It is very hard for any team playing against Spain to have any time in possession. So what we must do is to be more in control of our movement and compact, and when the ball goes through the lines, be able to defend dynamically.
“It’s nice to see miracles in football, and we’ve seen favourites losing against underdogs. Of course, it’s great for Saudi football to have a great memory of the result against Argentina, but we aren’t drawing anything from that.
“I think we’ll feel more pressure in that [Cape Verde] game than we will against Spain.”
The Spain coach, Luis De La Fuente had this to say in his Saturday press conference: “This generation of footballers is highly competitive and really fired up… It’s going to be a completely different story,” he said at his pre-match press conference on Saturday. There is no drama or crisis. The bottom line is simply that we need to win tomorrow.”
Four changes for Spain: Lamine Yamal, Pedro Porro, Dani Olmo and Alex Baena also come into the side with Marcos Llorente, Fabian Ruiz, Ferran Torres and Gavi dropping out.
The teams – Lamine Yamal starts
Spain: Simon, Porro, Cubarsi, Laporte, Cucurella, Gonzalez, Rodri, Yamal, Olmo, Baena, Oyarzabal. Subs: Raya, Joan Garcia, Pubill, Grimaldo, Eric Garcia, Llorente, Merino, Torres, Fabian, Gavi, Pino, Williams, Zubimendi, Munoz, Iglesias.
Saudi Arabia: Al Owais, Abdulhamid, Tambakti, Lajami, Al Amri, Al Harbi, Nasser Al Dawsari, Al Khaibari, Al Juwayr, Al Buraikan, Salem Al Dawsari. Subs: Al Aqidi, Al Kassar, Majrashi, Yahya, Al Shehri, Al Boushal, Kadesh, Al Johani, Al Ghannam, Al Hajji, Al Hamdan, Mandash, Kanno, Thakri, Abu Al Shamat.
Referee: Raphael Claus (Brazil)
Perhaps one of the Saudi -players can write themselves into this high-grade selection?
Perhaps it can be their goalkeeper.
Madrid screening of Spain v Saudi Arabia cancelled due to heat
The public screening of Spain’s World Cup match against Saudi Arabia in Madrid on Sunday has been cancelled because of extreme heat forecast for the Spanish capital, officials said.
The match, due to kick off at 6pm local time on Sunday, had been scheduled to be shown on a giant screen installed by the Spanish football federation (RFEF) at a fan zone in Plaza de Colón in central Madrid.
Madrid city council and the federation decided to cancel the screening after national weather agency AEMET issued an orange heat warning – the second-highest level – for the Madrid region, with temperatures forecast to reach 40C.
“The decision has been taken with the aim of protecting the health of attendees, event staff and support services involved in the event,” Madrid city hall said in a statement, apologising for any inconvenience.
Officials urged supporters to watch the match indoors in air-conditioned spaces and avoid prolonged exposure to the heat.
Large parts of Spain are experiencing unusually high temperatures for June as a mass of hot air from North Africa moves across the Iberian Peninsula.
A total of 13 of Spain’s 17 regions are on orange alert for heat on Sunday, while the northern Basque Country bordering France is on red alert, the highest level.
Authorities advised residents and visitors to take precautions during the heatwave, including drinking water regularly, staying in cool environments, limiting outdoor physical activity during the hottest hours of the day and taking extra care of vulnerable people. AFP
Can Saudi Arabia repeat the magic of 2022?
Argentina arrived in Qatar on a 36-game unbeaten run. When Lionel Messi opened the scoring from the penalty spot after 10 minutes, a comfortable afternoon seemed in the offing. Saleh al-Shehri and Salem al-Dawsari had other ideas, Argentina had three goals disallowed for offside in the space of 13 minutes and the greatest comeback in Saudi Arabia football history was made. Argentina went on to lift the trophy, while defeats to Poland and Mexico meant the Saudis did not reach the knock-out stage.
Unai Simon over David Raya is a controversial choice for De la Fuentes. The Arsenal keeper could lay claim to being Europe’s best this season.
“Those at the Champions League final had a few more days, so I got there on the Wednesday night,” Raya says. “I arrived a bit before Fabián [Ruiz]. I was saying hello to some of the others in reception when he arrived. I went to say congratulations; that was almost the first thing I did. I couldn’t really talk [to him] after the final; I just didn’t have it in me. The next day we talked about the game properly. Just two mates chatting … I was happy for him that he could lift the trophy for a second time.”
A high pressure game for the European champions, as Sid Lowe reports.
“If we had scored one, the game would have changed,” Martín Zubimendi said. Immediately after the game, De la Fuente had offered a simple analysis: when the ball doesn’t want to go in it doesn’t want to go in, he insisted. Spain had racked up 27 shots, after all. Ferran Torres had hit the bar and seen another clear opportunity saved. Vozinha, the 40-year-old goalkeeper who stopped that, saved six more and was named the man of the match. “There’s nothing to reproach the team for,” Rodri said. “We generated chances but couldn’t put it away; the good thing is they created almost nothing.”
We wait to see what role Lamine Yamal will play today. His coach would surely like to be able to use him.
The worst mistake we could make would be to compare him to anyone. He is the midst of a process. He has exceptional footballing maturity and lives it all with total naturalness. He has great serenity and strength. We have to let him follow his path but those players who have something different are ready for that. They’re geniuses, like Dalí [who] can paint a picture, or Michelangelo. They’re different. What is exceptional to us, isn’t to them. In those extremes, they feel comfortable. Why? Because they are different. What we think is exceptional, they consider normal.
Preamble
Spain’s campaign did not get off to a flying start, and Luis de la Fuentes may wake up in the night to visions of Cape Verde’s Vozinha. He will have Georgia on his mind ever since Monday. Saudi Arabia are no pushovers and gave Uruguay a scare in their opening match. Memories of downing Argentina four years ago still abound, and so Spain might beware. They can ill afford to go into the final game with Uruguay at a disadvantage. All eyes on Lamine Yamal, whose fitness situation remains opaque, though Spain need their other forwards to come to the party.
Kick-off 5pm UK, 1pm ET, 2am AEST. Join me.
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