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Family’s 90-year search for answers after father vanished in Francoist uprising – photo essay | Spain
They took everything from my great-grandfather Silvestre Indias Carvajal and left us with nothing but his story, which was buried at the bottom of a 30-metre-deep well in south-west Spain for 87 years.
Silvestre worked as a municipal clerk in his small home town of Feria in Extremadura. He was given the job in recognition for his service in the war in Morocco, a conflict to which he was dispatched by lottery.
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Feria is a small town in the south-eastern Spanish region of Extremadura, which sits atop a mountain range. It had barely 4,000 inhabitants in 1936 when it was occupied by Gen Franco’s rebel troops. The subsequent repression was swift and merciless and anyone deemed an enemy of the coup was eliminated. The estimated death toll in Feria is 97, making it one of the hardest-hit towns in the region.
He was living a quiet life – married with three children and another on the way – when Gen Francisco Franco began his coup against the Republican government on 18 July 1936.
One of his duties as town clerk was to guard imprisoned Franco sympathisers who might have joined the uprising.
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‘I was three years old when they took my father, and my sister was born seven months later,’ my grandmother Silvestra Indias told me four years ago. She added: ‘My brothers, who were only nine and six years old, had to go to work even though they were just kids. My mother would say, “Oh my little ones, I don’t know where your father is. They took him and I don’t know where he is”’.
But when Franco’s forces took Feria, finding very little opposition, his destiny swiftly changed. In August that year, a few weeks after the Spanish civil war began, word reached Silvestre that they were coming for him, so he and two colleagues fled to the countryside. He was found and taken prisoner a few days later and nothing more was known about what happened to him beyond the rumours that ran around the town. Silvestre was 39 years old.
“My cousin says she heard her mother say they’d shot him and thrown him down a well,” my grandmother Silvestra Indias told me three years before her death last July. She was named for the father who disappeared when she was three.
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Silvestre’s wife, María Sánchez González (my great-grandmother and Silvestra’s mother). ‘My mother went through a lot because her husband was murdered all of a sudden, leaving her with four kids,’ my grandmother told me. ‘Up until then, they’d had a decent life because he worked for the council. When they took her husband, they took everything. My mother was left with nothing.’ Right: Serafín Indias Carvajal, son of Silvestre. ‘My grandmother Silvestra couldn’t remember what her father looked like, but her mother always told her he was the spitting image of his son Serafín. Neither I, nor any other member of the family, have ever been able to find a photograph of my great-grandfather.’
Silvestre’s fate was not unique. It is thought that between 120,000 and 150,000 people were “disappeared” during the war and the subsequent dictatorship and that their bodies were thrown into 2,567 mass graves. From 1939 to 1975, the Franco regime hid their resting places, condemning their families to silence, humiliation and oblivion.
My great-grandmother María Sánchez was left widowed and pregnant with my great-aunt, María Indias. No one told her what had happened to her husband, nor where his remains were. As a single-parent family in postwar rural Spain, life was limited and bleak for those the dead left behind.
“I remember my mum coming to take me out of school,” María Indias told me four years ago. “I said, ‘But Mum, I don’t want to go. I’m happy here and I’m learning to read and write’. But she told me I had to go and work as a nanny.”
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My grandmother Silvestra showing me a photograph of herself with her four children, including my father. The process of recovering her father’s remains allowed her to reconstruct her family history.
Psychologists say that enforced disappearances can cause generational trauma that can echo down at least three generations. They say the descendants of the “disappeared” inherit or absorb the unconscious burden of the suffering of their parents and grandparents. I don’t know how much this tragedy has affected my father and me. But what I do know is that my grandmother’s life would have been a lot easier if she’d at least been able to lay flowers for her father.
But the return to democracy after Franco’s death, known as the Transition, was built on a pact of silence and on an amnesty that covered all the crimes committed during the civil war and the dictatorship. The newly democratic Spain offered no help to families searching for their dead until the year 2000, when, under pressure from historical memory associations and relatives, things began to change.
In 2007, the socialist government of José Luis Rodríguez Zapatero passed the historical memory law, which formally recognised Franco’s victims and compelled local governments to fund efforts to unearth mass graves. Fifteen years later, another socialist government built on that legislation with the 2022 democratic memory law, which ordered the creation of a census and a national DNA bank to help locate and identify the remains of the tens of thousands of people who still lie in unmarked graves.
One day in October 2021, I got a call from my aunt Rosi. She told me she had seen a TV programme about archaeologists who were searching for the remains of the disappeared in a well on a country estate on the outskirts of Feria.
Backed by the Extremaduran regional government, archaeologists and forensic specialists from the Aranzadi laboratory had descended on the farm. After pumping the water out of the well and then painstakingly digging through five metres of rock, they came across a tangle of bones.
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Once the remains were exhumed, they were transported 500 miles to the Aranzadi laboratory in San Sebastián in the Basque Country. As the skeletons were disarticulated, experts decided to separate the remains by type of bone to make the work easier.
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An archaeologist from the Aranzadi scientific society cleans fragments of bones. The fact that the skeletons were disarticulated made the identification and return of the remains a long and difficult process. Many of those awaiting the returns of their loved ones’ remains are now elderly, so time is of the essence.
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These are the remains that were in the box given to my grandmother Silvestra. Only the central bone, from which the forensic experts cut a small piece for analysis, belongs to my great-grandfather Silvestre. The identity of the others is unknown, but they were also in the well. These bones were given to my grandmother to fill up the box and to mitigate the psychological effects that receiving only one bone may cause. Right: Bullets found in the vicinity of the well on the Salamanco Chico country estate, on the outskirts of Feria.
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The archaeologists who exhumed the well discovered a number of objects belonging to the missing, including this shoe, which had not decomposed. The bones of its owner’s foot were still inside the shoe. Right: The jawbone of one of the people found exhumed from the well of the Salamanco Chico country estate on the outskirts of Feria.
“Rising and falling water levels had broken the skeletons apart,” says Lourdes Herrasti, who oversaw the recovery. “In other exhumations, the skeletons are articulated, so you can say, ‘This is the arm, this is the head, this is the torso,’ etc. But not in this case.” By sorting and analysing the remains, they eventually discovered that 20 people had lain forgotten at the bottom of the well. They then set about looking for descendants who might be able to provide DNA samples.
My great-aunt María Indias was 86 when she gave a saliva sample to determine whether any of the remains belonged to her father. Two years later, after an exhaustive effort, Javier Jiménez, the director of the Extremaduran regional government’s historical memory service, told us that the remains of my great-grandfather Silvestre had been found among the bones in the well. The only identifiable part of him to have survived was one of his thigh bones.
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The remains of my great-grandfather Silvestre Indias Carvajal are finally laid to rest in the same burial niche that holds the remains of his wife, María Sánchez; those of his daughter María Indias; and those of his son Serafín Indias. Last summer, they were joined by the remains of my grandmother Silvestra, who died in July at the age of 91.
At a ceremony held in the village in November 2023 and attended by relatives and those who had carried out the exhumation, my grandmother Silvestra was finally able to hug her father once again – albeit through the small coffin that contained what was left of him 87 years after he disappeared.
The reunion came too late for my great-aunt María Indias, who died a month before the remains were handed over. She never got the chance to embrace her father in life or death, but she left this world knowing that she had closed a wound that had been open for her entire life.
The issue of historical memory remains one of the most polarised debates in Spain. Although many families consider the two laws a basic matter of human rights and restitution, the right and the extreme right dismiss them as instruments that serve only to reopen the wounds of the past.
The Extremaduran regional government – now run by the conservative People’s party and their allies in the far-right Vox party – recently repealed the regional historical memory law and plan to replace it with a so-called “coexistence law”. They claim the new law will recognise “all the victims” of the civil war and the Franco dictatorship and avoid a “partisan” view of the past.
But historical memory groups have criticised it as a backwards step for truth, justice and reparation that will whitewash the dictatorship, remove explicit references to Francoism and equate victims with torturers.
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My grandmother Silvestra, right, and a friend during a visit to Feria – the town where her father was born, raised, and disappeared. Supporting the families of the victims of Francoist repression is crucial for healing the pain they continue to suffer after so many years of loss and uncertainty.
Their main fear is that the new law will undermine the public commitment to exhuming and identifying the bodies of the disappeared and returning them to their relatives.
Many families are still waiting to find out what really happened to their “disappeared” loved ones. To date, about 1,000 mass graves have been excavated and the remains of about 13,000 people have been recovered. But time has outrun the exhumation effort. Experts now believe that the construction of roads, buildings and cemeteries means that only a further 20,000 to 25,000 bodies may now be found.
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My grandmother sits in front of the well where her father’s remains were found. The search, exhumation and identification of the victims of Franco’s repression has dragged on for so long that many of their descendants have already died or are at the end of their lives.
An entire generation of the children of Franco’s victims is about to disappear. That’s why I hope this story will one day reach my five-year-old niece, Carla, and everyone else of her generation. They will never be able to hear these stories from the lips of those who survived them. But they need, more than ever, to know what happened so that this tragedy is never repeated.
“I think we need to dig them up, don’t you?” my grandmother Silvestra once told me. “Why would I want my father’s bones left underground when the family needs to know where he is – and that he existed? How many other bodies are there out there that have never been found?”
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Spain v Saudi Arabia: World Cup 2026 – live | World Cup 2026
Key events
In the opening half an hour against Cape Verde, Mikel Oyarzabal, the centre-forward, did not get a single touch.
Kyle Green gets in touch: “Your highlighting of Lalas and his absurdity is something that has prevented me from wanting to watch the coverage on Fox. While every channel has its pros and cons I just can’t.
“I’m 45 and probably the youngest of anyone who remembers him as a player instead of an opinionated insert insult here. As for the match this could be more competitive than it looks on paper Spain need a win the pressure is on them. Saudi Arabia could hold out for a draw and see what happens in their last match. “
News from the England camp, and it seems to be good news on Declan Rice.
“I’m ready and fit, raring to go. I was feeling a little bit of neural pain in my hamstring, which I was managing from after Christmas with Arsenal for a very long time. Obviously, not a lot of people would have known that. It was all behind-the-scenes stuff but it was a smart decision.
“In the end, that last 20 minutes is probably where you pick up the most, and it’s where you play a 70-minute match. But that last 20 is where you really feel your body going for it. And I think it was a smart decision because the last few days I felt really, really good.”
Alex Reid has penned today’s weekend special Football Daily.
Portugal v Uzbekistan on Tuesday enticingly pits the incredibly nice, incredibly 41-year-old-superstar-tolerant Roberto Martínez against Fabio Cannavaro, who’s won a Ballon d’Or as a player and the Chinese Super League as a coach. While the fixture following that game really does see the dream of Thomas Tuchel – in his first international job with England – taking on Queiroz, who is in charge of his ninth national side with Ghana.
The expected formations are 4-2-3-1 for Spain, and 5-3-2 for the Saudi Arabians.
The Saudi team features two Donis changes: Ali Lajami, a defender, and Nasser Al Dawsari, a midfielder, are preferred to Mohammed Abu Al Shamat and Mohamed Kanno. You may recall Salem Al Dawsari, the Saudi captain, as the man who scored the winner against Argentina.
An entertaining read, even for those of us who have just seen the clips.
In a conversation where his co-panelist is casually reminiscing about his days playing alongside Messi or exchanging shirts with Ronaldo Nazário at the World Cup, what exactly is Lalas going to talk about – coming on as a second-half substitute for Earnie Stewart in a friendly against Scotland in 1998? Helping the Kansas City Wizards finish last in the 1999 MLS Western Conference? Did Lalas enjoy an elite playing career? No. But does he do the background reading that could compensate for his relative lack of standing in a conversation with titans like Henry and Zlatan? Also no. But is he charming or funny or charismatic or otherwise magnetic on screen? Eh, no.
For the record, I once interviewed Alexi Lalas on the challenge of playing against Romario in the 1994 World Cup. He had this to say:
“He could kill you in so many different ways. If you remember from that World Cup, he scored so many types of goals. That ranged from solo adventures to an outside-of-the-right-foot half-volley off a corner kick. Romario was both the most difficult to play against and the best that I have faced.
“Roberto Baggio was doing his thing, but in terms of consistency and living up to the hype, he [Romario] was the best. As with all stars, there was a moment when the fans sit up in their seats, and that was a feeling I got with Romario. When it got close to him and the potential for his involvement in a play was there, everybody sat up in their seat. They knew that something spectacular would be happening.”
Saturday’s match reports here.
The Saudi Arabia coach, and Blackburn legend, Georgios Donis, spoke about the challenges facing his team: “Spain is not the same team when Yamal or Williams are on the bench.
“While they still have plenty of possession, they lack the individual one-on-one penetration when these two are missing. I’m not saying it’s a problem for Spain, but when those players are missing, they play in a different way. We saw this very clearly against Cape Verde.
“We are playing against one of the best teams in the world, and it’s very important that when you play against these kinds of teams, you should enjoy the experience and respect the opponent, but not too much.
“It is very hard for any team playing against Spain to have any time in possession. So what we must do is to be more in control of our movement and compact, and when the ball goes through the lines, be able to defend dynamically.
“It’s nice to see miracles in football, and we’ve seen favourites losing against underdogs. Of course, it’s great for Saudi football to have a great memory of the result against Argentina, but we aren’t drawing anything from that.
“I think we’ll feel more pressure in that [Cape Verde] game than we will against Spain.”
The Spain coach, Luis De La Fuente had this to say in his Saturday press conference: “This generation of footballers is highly competitive and really fired up… It’s going to be a completely different story,” he said at his pre-match press conference on Saturday. There is no drama or crisis. The bottom line is simply that we need to win tomorrow.”
Four changes for Spain: Lamine Yamal, Pedro Porro, Dani Olmo and Alex Baena also come into the side with Marcos Llorente, Fabian Ruiz, Ferran Torres and Gavi dropping out.
The teams – Lamine Yamal starts
Spain: Simon, Porro, Cubarsi, Laporte, Cucurella, Gonzalez, Rodri, Yamal, Olmo, Baena, Oyarzabal. Subs: Raya, Joan Garcia, Pubill, Grimaldo, Eric Garcia, Llorente, Merino, Torres, Fabian, Gavi, Pino, Williams, Zubimendi, Munoz, Iglesias.
Saudi Arabia: Al Owais, Abdulhamid, Tambakti, Lajami, Al Amri, Al Harbi, Nasser Al Dawsari, Al Khaibari, Al Juwayr, Al Buraikan, Salem Al Dawsari. Subs: Al Aqidi, Al Kassar, Majrashi, Yahya, Al Shehri, Al Boushal, Kadesh, Al Johani, Al Ghannam, Al Hajji, Al Hamdan, Mandash, Kanno, Thakri, Abu Al Shamat.
Referee: Raphael Claus (Brazil)
Perhaps one of the Saudi -players can write themselves into this high-grade selection?
Perhaps it can be their goalkeeper.
Madrid screening of Spain v Saudi Arabia cancelled due to heat
The public screening of Spain’s World Cup match against Saudi Arabia in Madrid on Sunday has been cancelled because of extreme heat forecast for the Spanish capital, officials said.
The match, due to kick off at 6pm local time on Sunday, had been scheduled to be shown on a giant screen installed by the Spanish football federation (RFEF) at a fan zone in Plaza de Colón in central Madrid.
Madrid city council and the federation decided to cancel the screening after national weather agency AEMET issued an orange heat warning – the second-highest level – for the Madrid region, with temperatures forecast to reach 40C.
“The decision has been taken with the aim of protecting the health of attendees, event staff and support services involved in the event,” Madrid city hall said in a statement, apologising for any inconvenience.
Officials urged supporters to watch the match indoors in air-conditioned spaces and avoid prolonged exposure to the heat.
Large parts of Spain are experiencing unusually high temperatures for June as a mass of hot air from North Africa moves across the Iberian Peninsula.
A total of 13 of Spain’s 17 regions are on orange alert for heat on Sunday, while the northern Basque Country bordering France is on red alert, the highest level.
Authorities advised residents and visitors to take precautions during the heatwave, including drinking water regularly, staying in cool environments, limiting outdoor physical activity during the hottest hours of the day and taking extra care of vulnerable people. AFP
Can Saudi Arabia repeat the magic of 2022?
Argentina arrived in Qatar on a 36-game unbeaten run. When Lionel Messi opened the scoring from the penalty spot after 10 minutes, a comfortable afternoon seemed in the offing. Saleh al-Shehri and Salem al-Dawsari had other ideas, Argentina had three goals disallowed for offside in the space of 13 minutes and the greatest comeback in Saudi Arabia football history was made. Argentina went on to lift the trophy, while defeats to Poland and Mexico meant the Saudis did not reach the knock-out stage.
Unai Simon over David Raya is a controversial choice for De la Fuentes. The Arsenal keeper could lay claim to being Europe’s best this season.
“Those at the Champions League final had a few more days, so I got there on the Wednesday night,” Raya says. “I arrived a bit before Fabián [Ruiz]. I was saying hello to some of the others in reception when he arrived. I went to say congratulations; that was almost the first thing I did. I couldn’t really talk [to him] after the final; I just didn’t have it in me. The next day we talked about the game properly. Just two mates chatting … I was happy for him that he could lift the trophy for a second time.”
A high pressure game for the European champions, as Sid Lowe reports.
“If we had scored one, the game would have changed,” Martín Zubimendi said. Immediately after the game, De la Fuente had offered a simple analysis: when the ball doesn’t want to go in it doesn’t want to go in, he insisted. Spain had racked up 27 shots, after all. Ferran Torres had hit the bar and seen another clear opportunity saved. Vozinha, the 40-year-old goalkeeper who stopped that, saved six more and was named the man of the match. “There’s nothing to reproach the team for,” Rodri said. “We generated chances but couldn’t put it away; the good thing is they created almost nothing.”
We wait to see what role Lamine Yamal will play today. His coach would surely like to be able to use him.
The worst mistake we could make would be to compare him to anyone. He is the midst of a process. He has exceptional footballing maturity and lives it all with total naturalness. He has great serenity and strength. We have to let him follow his path but those players who have something different are ready for that. They’re geniuses, like Dalí [who] can paint a picture, or Michelangelo. They’re different. What is exceptional to us, isn’t to them. In those extremes, they feel comfortable. Why? Because they are different. What we think is exceptional, they consider normal.
Preamble
Spain’s campaign did not get off to a flying start, and Luis de la Fuentes may wake up in the night to visions of Cape Verde’s Vozinha. He will have Georgia on his mind ever since Monday. Saudi Arabia are no pushovers and gave Uruguay a scare in their opening match. Memories of downing Argentina four years ago still abound, and so Spain might beware. They can ill afford to go into the final game with Uruguay at a disadvantage. All eyes on Lamine Yamal, whose fitness situation remains opaque, though Spain need their other forwards to come to the party.
Kick-off 5pm UK, 1pm ET, 2am AEST. Join me.
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